Sfakia (Chora Sfakion), Crete, Greece: Ultimate Travel Guide

During my last trip to Greece, I stumbled upon a hidden gem: the charming, remote coastal village of Sfakia (Chora Sfakion), Crete. And I don’t know if I’ll ever lay eyes on more beautiful beaches again. 

Before we set off, locals in Chania told us things like, “You haven’t been to Crete unless you visit Sfakiá,” and “As you drive through the White Mountains, remember my words: Roll the windows down and smell the wild oregano on the warm sea air.”

Clearly, we were onto something good… But what we actually found in Sfakiá was so much better than good. 

After visiting this authentic Cretan paradise – beach-hopping, swimming in some of the clearest azure waters I’ve ever seen, sipping on spritzes, dining on Cretan salads, Sfakian pies, and fresh local seafood (from whole-grilled snapper to marinated octopus salad!), and hiking in the gorges – I’m so excited to share my complete travel guide to Sfakia, Crete with you!

In this guide, you’ll find the best things to do in Sfakia – along with Sfakia’s best restaurants, top hotels, and must-know travel tips. 

When to Visit Sfakia

It’s almost always sunny and warm in Sfakia!

April through October is the perfect time to visit Sfakia, as you’re pretty much guaranteed perfect beach weather every day. 

According to all the locals I spoke to, Sfakia is only ever busy in July and August. But considering Chora Sfakion is a town of only 400 people, I imagine our perceptions of “busy” might be a bit different! This small town feels worlds away from mass tourism hubs like Crete’s northern coast and Athens.

We visited in late June – when the weather was amazing and hardly any other tourists were there! Talk about a hidden gem.

Avoid visiting November through March (unless your goal is to hike!), as temperatures drop surprisingly low and there’s a greater chance of rain. January sees the coldest temperatures (as low as 46°F or 7°C) and nine days of rain on average.

Where to Stay in Sfakia, Crete

In case you didn’t know: The small town of Sfakiá – also known as Hora Sfakion, Chora Sfakion, or Σφακιά in Greek – is the capital of the remote and mountainous region of Sfakia (which encompasses other coastal villages like Loutro and Agia Roumeli) in Southwestern Crete.

Here are the top three places to stay in the town of Sfakia:

Best Things to Do in Sfakia (Hora Sfakion), Crete

From beaches to hiking trails, here are the best things to do in the small village of Sfakia – and its surroundings!

1. Beach Day at Vrissi (Paralia Vrisi)

Quick! Check into your hotel and beeline it to Vrissi – a quiet local beach in Chora Sfakion – to kick off your beach vacation. Diving in, I may have teared up a little over how gorgeously clear and bright blue the sea was. 

This small pebble beach located west of town hosts a small beach club where you can rent two sunbeds and an umbrella for about €10. 

2. Try Sfakia’s Amazing Restaurants

Foodie friends, you’re going to love all of the delicious home-style cooking at the seaside tavernas in Sfakia. And I mean all of them.

From whole-grilled snapper, marinated octopus salad, and mussels, to Cretan salads, giant beans (my favorite!), homemade Sfakian sausages, moussaka, boureki, and Sfakian cheese pies… you’ll only find authentic Cretan and Sfakian specialties here!

No shortcuts. Just fresh-caught seafood. Flavorful, local vegetables. The warmest hospitality. And centuries of culture and tradition. 

After all, Sfakia’s economy is based almost purely on olive oil production, fishing, herding goats and sheep, and tourism. In other words, all roads lead to amazing, hyper-local food.

Best Restaurants in Sfakia

My favorite restaurants in Sfakia (ranked in order!) are:

• Kitchen Stories by the Sea (don’t miss this place!)
• Taverna Nikos
• Taverna Delfini
• Taverna Obrosgialos

For coffee and pastries, Markos & Niki Coffee & Bakery is the best. Craving a gyro? U Kantina won’t disappoint. And for casual sunset cocktails, head to Akrogiáli.

3. Hike Part of the E4 European Long Distance Path

At more than 7,400 miles, the E4 Trail is the longest hiking trail in Europe, passing through ten different countries. And it just so happens that one of its most beautiful coastal sections traverses Southern Crete! Why not hike part of it?

Starting in Sfakia (Hora Sfakion), you can hike along the mountainous coastline to incredible destinations like Sweet Water Beach (Glyka Nera), the town of Loutro, Marmara Beach (Paralia Marmara), and the village of Agia Roumeli. 

These places are only accessible via hiking or boating (no cars!), so this experience is pretty special. Expect lots of sun and sweat, epic views, and some elevation and steep cliffs. Check out this hiking map to plan your route. 

An example day hike itinerary could be: Trek the roughly 4.5-mile (7-kilometer) trail from Hora Sfakion to Loutro in about two hours. Spend the day at Loutro Beach (Paralia Loutro). Then, hike back… or take the boat! 

HOT TIP: If you’re visiting between May and October, you can bet on hot weather. The earlier you can set out, the better! Don’t forget to wear sturdy hiking boots, bring trekking poles, pack your reusable water bottle, snacks, and reef-safe sunscreen, and put on your adventure sunhat. 

4. Go Sea Kayaking

Keen on a seaborne adventure? Go on this Small-Group Guided Sea Kayaking Tour – which departs from Ilingas Beach (a 5-minute drive or 30-minute hike from Chora Sfakion). 

On this kayaking tour, you’ll paddle 9 miles (15 kilometers) along Crete’s spectacular southern coast, exploring sea caves, coves, and gorgeous rocky beaches. There are plenty of amazing snorkeling spots along the way, too (gear is included in this tour). Halfway, you’ll stop in Loutro for lunch.

Click here to book your Small-Group Guided Sea Kayaking Tour of Sfakia!

5. Day Trip to Loutro

Loutro is the most picturesque village in all of Crete. Striking vistas of whitewashed buildings, pebble beaches, sparse greenery, and rocky orange-brown mountains will draw you in – but the crystal-clear waters and flavor-packed Cretan fare will make you never want to leave! 

When you arrive in Loutro, have some fresh-squeezed orange juice, a coffee, Greek yogurt, and fresh fruit at Taverne Ilios. Then, rent two sunbeds and an umbrella from Hotel Porto Loutro for €9 and relax.

Mid-day, I recommend enjoying a delicious seaside lunch and a spritz (or two!) at the Blue House Hotel and Restaurant.

To get to Loutro, you can take a ferry boat from Sfakia, which makes multiple roundtrip journeys daily; one-way tickets cost €5. You can also hike to Loutro in about two hours (see #3 for details). 

Hot tip: Want to spend the night in Loutro? I recommend staying at Daskalogiannis Hotel, the Blue House Hotel, or Hotel Porto Loutro On The Beach.

Fun fact: Like Chora Sfakion, Loutro’s history goes way back. Loutro is considered the site of the ancient city of Phoenix, an important port city during the Hellenistic and Roman eras. 

6. Relax at Sweet Water Beach (Glyka Nera)

Is this the most beautiful beach in the world? Quite possibly.

Nestled into a jagged mountainside, Sweet Water Beach (Glyka Nera) is a remote pebble beach kissed by the clearest blue-green water.

To get to Sweet Water Beach, hop on the ferry in Sfakia’s port; you’ll find the timetable posted there. A one-way ticket costs €4.

Or, you can hike to Sweet Water (see #3 for more info). The 2-mile (3.5-kilometer) journey takes about an hour. 

On arrival, you’ll discover a small tavern on the dock for drinks and food. Plus, some local goats for entertainment. You can rent two sunbeds and an umbrella for €10/day. 

7. Watch the Sunset from the Venetian Castle Ruins

Toward the end of the 15th century, the Venetians constructed the Fort of Sfakia to defend the region against pirate attacks. The fortress ruins overlook Sfakia from atop Kasteli Hill (which was previously the site of a Byzantine fort).

This castle is the perfect place to savor views over Sfakia and watch the sunset. It will only take you a few minutes to hike up – but wear your hiking boots, in case of loose gravel!

8. Hike in the Gorges

Hikers flock to Sfakia to hike in the many beautiful gorges. Pack your hiking boots and trekking poles so you can join the fun. There are three different gorges nearby to explore: 

• The Imbros Gorge is the closest gorge to Sfakia. This out-and-back hike features narrow rocky paths and is considered easy. The entrance/exit to the hike is here and free parking is available here. 
• The Aradena Gorge hike will lead you down to beautiful Marmara Beach. To embark on this hike, drive from Sfakia to Aradena (25 minutes) and follow this trail – which is considered challenging. By the way, want to go bungee jumping? Next to the parking lot, you’ll also find Aradena Bridge, home to the highest bridge bungee jump in Greece, at 138 meters high! 
• The Samaria Gorge is the most famous gorge hike showcasing the grandeur of Crete’s White Mountains. Most people hike down through the Samaria Gorge on a day trip from Chania. However, if you don’t have time for this day trip, you can still visit the gorge unconventionally; from Sfakia, you can take a roundtrip ferry or water taxi to Agia Roumeli, and – starting at the end of the trail – embark on an out-and-back hike of the flatter/easier part.

9. Explore the South Coast by Private Boat

How to Get to Sfakia

Wondering how to get to Sfakia? The best way is to rent a car and drive yourself! That way, you can access nearby destinations like Ilingas Beach, the serene, ancient mountain town of Anopolis, and the Samaria Gorge with ease. 

We rented a car in Chania from Vacanza Car Rentals and had a fantastic experience –  they even allowed us to drop the car off in Heraklion after visiting Sfakia. However, it’s much cheaper to book in advance via this website. Click here to find a great deal on your rental car!

You can also take the bus to Chora Sfakion directly from Chania, every day except Sunday. Click here to see the timetable!

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Are you planning to visit Sfakia (Chora Sfakion), Crete soon? Have questions? Want to share your thoughts and experiences with other readers? Leave your comments and questions in the comments section below!